Outbound: “It’s called a Flaming-” “Moe. A Flaming Moe.”

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A good year

Anniversaries can be tricky things. Sure, you want to celebrate, but you don’t want to seem like you’re being immodest. At any rate, the Old Town Alchemy Co. recently celebrated its first year at its current home, a milestone which happily coincided with a different kind of annual celebration.

There are hundreds of whisky distilleries secreted around Scotland. Balblair might not be one of the immediately recognized ones but its heritage is undisputed. Established by John Ross in 1790 on the shores of the Dornoch Firth, it’s the oldest working distillery in the Highland region and one of the oldest in Scotland. After changing hands a few times over the years, the distillery was sold to Inver House Distillers in 1996 and three years ago, Balblair took the decision to only release vintage single malts.

It’s a brave decision. While most distilleries release vintages at some point, usually as special or limited editions with a matching pricetag, making them the entire basis of a portfolio is virtually unheard of in Scotch producers. The key difference between a vintage single malt, say from 1998, and a 12 year old malt is that right now, in 2010, the former is no younger than twelve years old, nor any older, while the latter contains a blend of liquids at different ages, all of which are at least twelve years old.

It’s hard to separate the idea of a vintage whisky from that of a vintage wine. A vintage wine offers a liquid record of the year in which the wine was made, whereas because of the differing methods of production involved, a vintage whisky doesn’t have that immediate relationship to the time of its creation. Instead, we get a snapshot of a particular spirit at a particular point of its development with all the detail that often gets blended out.

Along with some proper journalists and media guests, I was lucky enough to be invited to the National Museum of Scotland to try some of Balblair’s vintages and enjoy an exclusive performance by the Scottish jazz vocalist Niki King. While I’m never one to turn down free whisky, the reason behind the combination of classic jazz and vintage single malt was the launch of Balblair’s Vintage Lounge, with events planned for Paris and New York later in the year. The music was predictably awesome, and the three vintages we tried – 1997, 1989, and 1978 – were equally good. It was a fun evening, a chance to meet some interesting people – including the Balblair distillery manager, John MacDonald – and raise a toast to this, and other, good years.

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Outbound: Lies, biofuels, cheap nights out, and orgies. Or beer.

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If you say Justin Bieber, you’re getting cut off

There’s an interesting article in this month’s Wired about Hunch, a new recommendation engine from Flickr co-founder Caterina Fake. I’m featuring it here for two reasons – first, Caterina Fake possesses one of the all-time great names, and  second, it reminds me of something I tend to do when making drinks.

The basic idea behind Hunch is that instead of generating recommendations based on what you’ve previously bought, it derives its suggestions from the answers you give to a wide range of questions. This leads to insights such as those who believe in the existence of UFOs tend to prefer Pepsi over Coke, and holders of an MBA like blue pens over black ones. Once the site’s generated enough data from your answers, it can offer you recommendations for things as diverse as blogs, laptop bags, and, of course, cocktails.

It’s a neat idea and it can link into cocktail service. Every once in a while, a customer will ask a bartender to come up with a drink that isn’t on the menu. If this happens, I usually try to gather a couple of important bits of information – what spirits they particularly like or dislike, if they’d prefer a long or a short drink, any allergies – that will provide the overall shape of the drink, and then I ask the customer to name their favourite band or musician.

If they say Beethoven or Mozart, for example, then I’ll opt towards something more classic in style. If they go more pop, then I’ll swing toward the brightly coloured, fruity end of the spectrum. An Oasis fan may seem quite rock’n'roll, but perhaps they won’t be as willing to be challenged in the same way as a Radiohead fan might while someone who names John Cage could be happy with something from the bleeding edge of mixological innovation. At best, it adds a personal touch and a bit of theatre to the transaction. At worst, it’s a conversational dead-end and we move on.

Back to Hunch, and after answering a bunch of questions – way more fun than I thought it would be – I checked out the “cocktails” category first. My number one recommendation?

The Old-Fashioned.

The internets know me so well.

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Outbound: Simplexity

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    Outbound: something old, something new, something in a stuffed squirrel

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    The secret of Cartagena

    Let’s set out some basics. As always, there’s a sponsor. Today – and by today, I mean Monday past – it’s Licor 43. There’s a prize. It’s a good one, too: today’s winner will join a trip to Spain in September with finalists from four other UK regions before competing for a 12 month contract as a brand ambassador for Licor 43. And there’s a brief – present a twist on a vanilla Daiquiri along with a pair of “seasonal” cocktails.

    There’s an easy way of doing seasonal, and there’s the other way. The easy, logical way is to incorporate fresh, seasonal produce into a recipe. The more obscure path would be to think of what drinks represent a particular season and build out from there, and so: summer. Long evenings and lazy sunsets and all you really want is something long and refreshing. Outside of cocktails and spirit-based mixed drinks, there’s one drink you’ll see on terraces and porches all through summer – the white wine spritzer.

    Sure, it’s refreshing, but does the humble spritzer represent an appropriate template for a cocktail? Perhaps not, but in this particular instance, maybe it does.

    There’s a question over where we start the story. We could go with the 1960s and the international launch of Licor 43. It will go on to become Spain’s most successful export liqueur, available in 55 markets worldwide. We could go back to 1924, and find Diego, Angel, and Josefina Zamora Conesa taking over a small distillery in Cartagena, Spain, and – with Josefina’s husband – starting to make a liqueur built on the heritage of Liquor Mirabilis, an ancient recipe that had endured in secret through centuries of political shenanigans.

    In 228 BC, the Carthaginian general Hasdrubal established a new capital on the south-eastern coast of modern-day Spain. The founding of Cartago Nova – New Carthage – marked the first step in the creation of a private empire used by Hasdrubal and, later, his brother-in-law Hannibal as a staging post for an audacious invasion of the Mediterranean’s other nascent superpower: Rome.

    The transformation of small town once known as Mastia into a major port and the centre of Carthage’s Iberian territories gave rise to a number of opportunities and local alchemists wasted no time in combining local herbs and spices with those imported from North Africa and using these botanicals to flavour wine. Of these pre-distillation liqueurs, Mirabilis was said to be the most popular.

    The old saying about all good things held true. In 209 BC, Scipio Africanus brought Roman retribution to Cartago Nova. Whether it was through an idealogical crusade, or simply the over-enthusiasm of victorious conqueurors, the local wineries were smashed and Mirabilis was driven underground. The recipe was passed between locals and kept alive as Cartago Nova passed from Roman rule in 409 and through no less than twelve different regimes until it was conquered by the Kingdom of Aragon in 1245. From the Carthaginians to the Romans to the Aragonese to the Zamora family, wine is a major part of the heritage of Mirabilis and Licor 43, and so, maybe it’s fitting to look to wine for inspiration.

    Luminoso Y Elegante

    25ml Licor 43
    25ml Greenall’s Bloom
    1 barspoon Maraschino
    1 dash Fee Brothers Peach Bitters
    10ml Champagne

    Stir the first four ingredients with ice and strain into an ice-filled wine glass. Top with Champagne and garnish with a lemon zest and a cherry.

    The old saying about all good things still holds true. There’s no Spanish holiday for me, so congratulations to Tigerlily‘s Joey Medrington and thanks to everyone at Licor 43 and Wray & Nephew for setting up the comp, and to the lovely guys at the Raconteur for hosting.

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    Outbound: the official cocktail of summer

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    Outbound: up close

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    The new, old gin

    Few things in life are finer than an afternoon drinking gin and sometimes we’re lucky enough to spend that time with someone who shares that enthusiasm. Earlier this week, the Raconteur – most likely Edinburgh’s next world-class cocktail bar – hosted Andy Dawson from Broker’s Gin for a tasting/Q&A session.

    Despite launching in 1998, Broker’s isn’t a particularly well-known brand in the UK. Their initial focus was on the US market where they’re now available in 40 states and have garnered a wealth of awards, including the top ranking in the Gin category at the 2010 Ultimate Spirits Challenge. Remarkably, Broker’s is still an independent brand, operated by its founders Martin and Andy Dawson. It’s always refreshing to see products flourishing outside of the major multi-nationals, and it’s also impressive to see them putting the effort in to expand outside of London. Edinburgh was an obvious choice, apparently. It’s believed to have the highest per capita consumption of gin of any city in Europe.

    There’s something essentially English about Broker’s. Each old school, square bottle wears a little bowler hat – as does Andy when he’s on the clock – but that philosophy also extends to the contents of the bottle. It’s unashamedly classic in style with juniper front and centre, complemented by rounded spice notes and sharpened with a touch of citrus. To put it in context, it’s somewhere between Tanqueray’s full-blooded robustness and the lighter flavours and textures of Bombay Sapphire. The botanical mix contains no non-traditional ingredients, which sets Broker’s apart from the majority of new gins and it’s difficult to fault that strategy. There may – and some might argue it already has – come a point when the addition of flavours like raspberry or coconut or whatever comes next becomes less about creating a great product and more about defining a brand gimmick.

    Broker’s are supporting an imminent competition, to be held at the Raconteur in early July. The rules are pretty tough – four ingredient maximum, which must be easily available or replicable, and all recipes have to presented with a story as opposed to the traditional here-I-am-and-here’s-what-I’m-doing approach. I’m not going to be able to compete, but if I were, I’d be hard pressed to find a more appropriate story than two guys with a dream that’s still going strong a dozen years later.

    The City & The City

    50ml Broker’s Gin
    15ml Creme de Mure
    10ml Fernet Branca
    20ml Champagne

    Stir the first three ingredients with ice and strain into a chilled flute. Top with Champagne – not too much – and garnish with a lemon zest twist.

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